Step 3: Start Scrubbing. Go at it, and try to make sure you’re removing the finish equally, otherwise you might end up with a very odd feeling neck. Initially, you’ll notice the dust coming off the guitar is white, and then it will eventually turn to a brownish hue. You can really go as far as you want, but I like to stop as soon as the
I switched to the bridge removal knife to remove the clear top and purple tint coats, heating small areas and working the knife underneath to lift and remove the finish. Remember to keep that gun moving to prevent burning the finish! After about 30 minutes I had the body stripped down to the metallic base coat.

Step 7: Remove the Old Finish. Sand the old finish existing on your old guitar either by sanding it completely away or just applying a rough sanding because you’re going to paint on it anyway. A complete sanding is recommended if you’re going to use a light color or transparent finish later. Rough it up with the sanding if you’re using a

\n\nhow to remove finish from guitar
Step 2: Apply black stain. Black stain is used to make the guitar really pop and give it a 3D look. Before applying it directly to the guitar, mix some dye in 10-20ml of hot water and apply it to the scraps to see how it behaves. Keep doing it until it is dark enough to be applied to the guitar.
For those that use CA glue to hold frets or other repairs with CA, acetone will totally eliminate any glue stain that has penetrated into to the wood adjacent to the repair. I scrape off any obvious glue seen and then wipe the location with a rag or paper towel dampened in acetone. Glue residue completely gone.
On 1/14/2022 at 3:30 PM, tbonesullivan said: Nail Polish remover is dilute acetone, and should remove superglue. Definitely easier to work with than straight acetone, which often evaporates too fast to do any good. You can try scraping off the excess with a razor blade CAREFULLY before using the solvents. Thanks for the info.
Just remember a few things, and it'll be fine. You don't want to completely remove the finish. You want to knock enough of the gloss finish off to where it becomes more of a satin finish. When sanding, go slow. You can always sand more, but you can't un-sand. Try to get an even finish over the whole neck. Oh, also, remove the neck first if you can.

Check the climate where the guitar is kept or stored. To prolong the life of the finish and the guitar, humidity should remain a constant 45-50%. The rule of thumb for heat and humidity is, if you're comfortable, the guitar is comfortable. When shipping or storing the instrument, tune down the strings a step. DON'T

It will also remove the sticky sensation from your neck. Only use the 0000 steel wool and leave the rest for later. If you use more aggressive steel wool (000 or 00) you will most likely rub against the protective satin finish. The guitar’s finish should be removed. This guitar neck is made of Fender Telecasters from the early 1970s. Try some automotive "No.7 Clearcoat Polishing Compound". I've used it on some guitar scuff marks and light scratches and it rubs it out quite nicely." Actually, one the guitar repairman at one of our local shops recommends this or a similar product. Apply it, let it dry, then buff it out. Custom Shop Fretboard Remedy – to clean, hydrate, and protect the fretboard. Custom Shop Quick Clean – to use after each time you wipe down your guitar. Fender Dual-Sided Super-Soft Microfiber Cloth – has 1 side for cleaning and 1 side for polishing. Fender Factory Microfiber Cloth – shines without scratches or smudges. .
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